Breakers


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Breakers

 

the phenomenon of ocean waves breaking some distance from the shore (as opposed to surf, which results from waves breaking directly on the shore). Breakers usually form over underwater waves, reefs, or sandbars. There are “plunging” breakers (formed as a result of the full breaking of a wave) and “sliding” breakers (formed as a result of the partial breaking of a wave). The initial breaking of a wave is also called a sliding breaker. If there is strong turbulence on a gently sloping shore, a wave can break more than once, becoming a smaller wave each time.

REFERENCE

Longinov, V. V. Dinamika beregovoi zony besprilivnykh morei. Moscow, 1963.

O. K. LEONT’EV

References in classic literature ?
A bluff cape to the north and a long spit to the south marked the mouth of the noble river, with a low-lying island of silted sand in the centre, all shrouded and curtained by the spume of the breakers.
I know few things more surprising than to see this plant growing and flourishing amidst those great breakers of the western ocean, which no mass of rock, let it be ever so hard, can long resist.
We passed out between the East and West Furies; and a little farther northward there are so many breakers that the sea is called the Milky Way.
Now you rode the breakers with the Kanakas at Kealaikahiki.
All afternoon, when I went on deck, I saw men and officers listening hard over the bulwarks -- "for breakers," they said; and though I did not so much as understand the word, I felt danger in the air, and was excited.
How long they stood and watched the stately procession of breakers, rising from out the deep and wind-capped sea to froth and thunder at their feet, Saxon did not know.
They had not intended to spend the afternoon, but found themselves too fascinated to turn away from the breakers bursting upon the rocks and from the many kinds of colorful sea life starfish, crabs, mussels, sea anemones, and, once, in a rock-pool, a small devilfish that chilled their blood when it cast the hooded net of its body around the small crabs they tossed to it.
After that he often came to see me, and when my mouth was healed the other breaker, Job, they called him, went on training me; he was steady and thoughtful, and I soon learned what he wanted.
I say lucky for us he did not reach us, and I might almost say luckily for himself; for we had only a small breaker of water and some soddened ship's biscuits with us, so sudden had been the alarm, so unprepared the ship for any disaster.
And the different forms of government make laws democratical, aristocratical, tyrannical, with a view to their several interests; and these laws, which are made by them for their own interests, are the justice which they deliver to their subjects, and him who transgresses them they punish as a breaker of the law, and unjust.
Him who breaketh up their tables of values, the breaker, the lawbreaker:--he, however, is the creator.
Him who breaketh up their tables of values, the breaker, the law-breaker--he, however, is the creator.