Breakers


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Breakers

 

the phenomenon of ocean waves breaking some distance from the shore (as opposed to surf, which results from waves breaking directly on the shore). Breakers usually form over underwater waves, reefs, or sandbars. There are “plunging” breakers (formed as a result of the full breaking of a wave) and “sliding” breakers (formed as a result of the partial breaking of a wave). The initial breaking of a wave is also called a sliding breaker. If there is strong turbulence on a gently sloping shore, a wave can break more than once, becoming a smaller wave each time.

REFERENCE

Longinov, V. V. Dinamika beregovoi zony besprilivnykh morei. Moscow, 1963.

O. K. LEONT’EV

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