the loop structure of a knit fabric that determines the fabric’s appearance and properties (such as elasticity, strength, and porosity). Knit stitches differ from one another in terms of their loop structure (loop, stitch, inlay). Flat knits and warp knits are distinguished according to the number of yarns used in the formation of a row of loops.
In flat knitting, a horizontal course is formed by the consecutive wrapping of one strand of yarn. In warp knitting, the course consists of a system of strands (or warp), with individual strands consecutively forming one or, less frequently, two loops in each course. Knits may be single or double. In single knits, such as jersey, one side consists of face loops; in double knits, which are produced on knitting machines with two needles, both sides are face sides.
The various types of knits are usually divided according to structure into plain (or jersey), rib, combined, and complex knits. In jersey knits, each row consists of the simplest combination of just one basic element: the loops. The many weft structures include the flat weft knit (plain one-faced) and stretch knit (double knit). The basic warp structures include the chain, tricot, and satin. Warp knits may be single or double. Chain structures do not represent a knit in the usual sense of the word. They consist of the loops of one strand added on to one another. Chains have no cross connections. They are used to obtain more complex warp knits, such as tricot and satin.
Ribbed structures, such as ribbed jersey and ribbed stretch knits, represent a combination of short wales made from various types of simple knits.
Combined structures (including tucked and Jacquard) comprise interlacings whose horizontal courses combine various elements of the loop structure and have a more complex sequence of courses as compared to basic knits. The complex knits, such as open-work and zigzags, are obtained by supplementary operations during loop formation, such as floating loops and interlacings with a fixed placement of two strands in a loop.
REFERENCEDanilovich, A. S. Osnovy teorii viazaniia. Moscow, 1970.
I. I. SHALOV