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Mainbocher

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Mainbocher (mĕn'bōshā`) (Main Rousseau Bocher), 1891–1976, American fashion designer, b. Chicago. He was known for his expensive, elegant evening clothes; cardigan sweaters with jeweled buttons; and high-waisted, long, and lacy or transparent ball gowns. He opened his Paris house of couture in 1929 and his New York house in 1939. He designed war uniforms for the WAVES and SPARS and made costume designs for stage productions. He introduced the strapless evening gown, and made the wedding dress for the Duchess of Windsor. His signature fashion designs included pearl chokers and short, white gloves.


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Christian Dior is usually credited with grasping the mood of the moment with his joyous, full-skirted Corolle collection of 1947, which launched Dior's New Look - but in 1939, before the outbreak of war, the Paris collections of Chanel and Mainbocher were both modelled on a full skirt and a wasp waist.
Mainbocher, the Parisian couturier who dressed Gloria Morgan Vanderbilt, Rosalind Russell and Mary Martin, also lived there, and guests included John V.
She tells how the painfully shy Mainbocher, despite many invitations, refused to design for the theater until 1943, when he attended a backer's audition for One Touch of Venus and saw Mary Martin rehearsing: "Instantly he changed his mind and designed some superb Grecian-style costumes for the show.
 
 
 
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