Simulations with XBeach in 2DH show that the alongshore current
and its interaction with the cross-shore processes lead to significantly more dune erosion, and that the coastal orientation with respect to the wave angle also plays an important role.
They found that while sea level shows a seasonal variability, the alongshore current
shows no clear seasonal cycle but is dominated by intraseasonal (55-110 day) fluctuations.
The region along the shelf break and over the upper slope has high primary productivity that may be driven by shelf-break fronts, seasonal upwelling, strong alongshore currents
, and tidal mixing (Parsons, 1986).
Martha's Vineyard and the Elizabeth Islands protect Woods Hole and make it a safe harbor, but they also block scientists from immediate access to undisturbed ocean waves and alongshore currents
Sediment transport is a non-issue; changes to the beach will be dominated by the local wave climate and sediment supplies driven by alongshore currents