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Breakers

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Breakers 

the phenomenon of ocean waves breaking some distance from the shore (as opposed to surf, which results from waves breaking directly on the shore). Breakers usually form over underwater waves, reefs, or sandbars. There are “plunging” breakers (formed as a result of the full breaking of a wave) and “sliding” breakers (formed as a result of the partial breaking of a wave). The initial breaking of a wave is also called a sliding breaker. If there is strong turbulence on a gently sloping shore, a wave can break more than once, becoming a smaller wave each time.

REFERENCE

Longinov, V. V. Dinamika beregovoi zony besprilivnykh morei. Moscow, 1963.

O. K. LEONT’EV



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Espied by some timid man-of-war or blundering discovery-vessel from afar, when the distance obscuring the swarming fowls, nevertheless still shows the white mass floating in the sun, and the white spray heaving high against it; straightway the whale's unharming corpse, with trembling fingers is set down in the log -- shoals, rocks, and breakers hereabouts: beware
Between the marble cenotaphs on either hand of the pulpit, the wall which formed its back was adorned with a large painting representing a gallant ship beating against a terrible storm off a lee coast of black rocks and snowy breakers.
At the end of the straits, I made sure we must fall into some bar of raging breakers, where all my troubles would be ended speedily; and though I could, perhaps, bear to die, I could not bear to look upon my fate as it approached.
 
 
 
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