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large-figured weave, a type of weave used for reproducing patterns on a fabric. The repeating motif involves a large number of threads both for the warp and for the weft. These weaves are produced on looms with Jacquard machines. The contours of the patterns are plotted by the textile designer on drafting paper from a model and are then filled in with the graphic elements of the various weaves (the raiser). The finished pattern indicates where the cards that control the Jacquard machine are to be notched, or punched. The warp repeats of certain Jacquard weaves can consist of several hundred threads. In some patterns the repeat occupies the entire width of the fabric. The weft repeat is unlimited, and in certain instances reaches several thousand threads.
Simple Jacquard weaves, formed from one warp and one weft, are used in certain cotton, silk, and woolen fabrics for dresses, lining fabrics, damasks, tablecloths, and napkins. Complex Jacquard weaves form the pattern on the fabric from several systems of warp and weft threads. A distinction is made between filling-backed, double, and pile weaves. Complex Jacquard weaves are used for fabrics for dresses, suits, overcoats, upholstery, and other decorative fabrics.
Various lighting effects on the fabric surface are achieved through the use of this weave. Combined with the various colors and kinds of threads, the Jacquard weave provides attractive and soft gradations of tones and starkly outlined contours of patterns that at times are very complex (designs, landscapes, portraits).
I. S. MOROZOVSKAIA