'becomes an exhaustive mapping of the world,' with dishes from the entire orb that bear the signs of the zodiac, but, as Conte infers, 'geography has become gastronomy'; it is 'a life completely subordinated to the needs of the body, a life in which food becomes a Protagorean "measure of all things"' (1996, 122-123; cf.
Like Trimalchio's feast
, Apicius' concoctions seem to have been closely tied to the sin of gluttony in the nineteenth-century mind: "The glutton studies Latin to be able to read the beastly messes of Apicius in the original.
The ancient account by the Roman writer Petronius of Trimalchio's Dinner, for example, is mentioned as part of the discussion on avarice, because the guests who gorged themselves at Trimalchio's feast
were wearing lavish arm bracelets and reveled in the show-business aspects of the featured dishes.