At this stage., therefore, they ceremonially change to new kustis, while a special sudreh, hand-stitched by the bride's mother, richly decorated with lace edging, is proudly worn by the bride under her white wedding sari.
In India, however, only sheep's wool is used for weaving kustis. Fine yarn is now imported from Australia in clean, shrink-proof bundles called "fare.
Traditionally, only women from the priestly class would weave kustis. Today, with diminishing boundaries between the priestly 'class Athornans and laity Behdins, women of the laity have started weaving kustis as well.
Yet, a lot of skill is required to spin extremely fine yarn for thin kustis which are in high demand, and this seemingly casual skill is integral to the weaving as it determines the thickness of the kusti.
According to an admirable age-old custom, the spinner gives the weaver enough yarn for two kustis. The weaver in turn after weaving presents one kusti to the spinner and keeps one for herself.
The women of the priestly class who made kustis would generally get them cut and consecrated by the male priest members of their own Families.
Caption: 1 A composite image showing fully prepared kustis, and a kusti just off the loom.
This premise is further developed in the following chapter, where Knapp and Kustis
attempt to provide an algorithm with which to work out the cost, in actual terms, to a company.