Nail down the tackless strip (Photo 2), fingertip width (1/4 to 3/8 in.) away from the wall or molding with the pins leaning toward the wall.
Position the first length of carpet pad with one edge just touching the edge of the tackless strip. Place all pad "scrim" or slippery side up so carpet can slide over it during installation.
Use a hammer head (Photo 8) to press or "set" the carpet backing onto the tackless strip, 5 ft.
Use your hammer to set the backing over the tackless strip pins directly in front of the stretcher head.
Use the knee kicker to lightly bump the carpet so it catches on the tackless strip along Wall B parallel to the stretcher (Photo 10).
Stretch the carpet perpendicular to the first stretch and rub it onto the tackless strip. Use the knee kicker to bump the carpet into the back of the closet, then into the sides and front.
Tuck the carpet between the tackless strip and the baseboard molding using the back of a linoleum knife (Photo 12).
Order the equivalent amount of pad to go under the carpet and purchase enough tackless strips to go around the perimeter of the room.
* You can reuse your existing tackless strips if the wood is solid and the pins are intact.
Wall-to-wall carpet is generally fastened at the perimeter of the room with so called tackless strips
. These are metal strips, attached to the floor, that have prongs facing up to snag the edges of the carpet.
If your room is carpeted, roll the carpet back out of the way and pry up the tackless strips
(wear leather gloves--the barbs on tackless strips
are wickedly sharp).